A lot of poeple don’t even think about backpacking the Grand Canyon; just observing from a distance. If you think the Grand Canyon is overrated, I guarantee you you have never backpacked the canyon! I was blessed enough to have that experience with the Boise State University Outdoor Program in January 2023.
Since we visited in the winter, you are probably wondering, was there snow? Was it cold? The answer to both those questions are YES! However, since we actually went INTO the canyon, it got drastically warmer and there were no more signs of snow.
So what route did we take for this adventurous trip? That is what I am about to show you. Regardless of what route you take, go IN when backpacking the Grand Canyon for the full experience! Just as an example, here is the route my group and I took during our trip.
Night 1: Camped at the very top of the Canyon
This wasn’t planned but since we arrived at the park very late, we camped at the first site available to us. Due to this, we were forced to camp in about six inches of snow. This will be the biggest understatement of the year but it was FREEZING! One step out of the tent and I was already sinking in snow. It was even worse when the snow got into my boots, dampness is worse when it starts out as snow!
Day 2: Journey into the Canyon via Bright Angel Trail
Finally able to leave our Siberian campsite, we walked to the North Kaibab Visitor Center. From there, we took the shuttle to the actual trailhead.
Important information: Before you hike the snow-covered trail, be sure to throw on a pair of YAKTRAX. (Must be purchased before your trip). These are what will help keep you from slipping and falling into the canyon!
The hike itself was not that difficult, as we were all eager to hike down into the canyon and warm up. Once you have reached the part where the snow disappears, you can remove your YAKTRAX! In addition, along the way are picnic tables, pavilions, and bathrooms, making it seem like a semi off the grid experience.
Night 2: Cremation Campsite
This campsite was the ONLY place we camped at that did not have any running water or bathrooms. If you plan on camping here, be sure to have plenty of your own water, and your own biodegradable toilet paper! This is the rule for backpacking ANYWHERE, but whenever you do your business, make sure you dig a hole and do it in there. After that, make sure you bury it along with the toilet paper. The toilet paper has to be biodegradable because it will be broken down by nature and won’t count as litter. That way, you are following the outdoor concept of “leave no trace” and not littering.
This campsite got its name from Native Americans long ago, who would use the site as a spot for scattering ashes of fellow natives.
Day 3: Hike down to Phantom Ranch
This hike was much easier, given the fact there was no snow. In addition, the further we hiked down, we got to see a lot of interesting things found down in the canyon. The Colorado River, rafters down the river, people riding horses ON THE TRAIL, and even plenty of horse stables! Even better, the further we went down, the warmer the weather got. By the end of the hike, we had people going from winter coats to t-shirts!
Night 3: Phantom Ranch
A popular opinion among the group, this was the best campsite of all! We were right next to a good part of the Colorado River. In addition, within walking distance of the Phantom Ranch Canteen (lodge and restaurant) and a horse stable! Unfortunately the restaurant was too expensive for us but it was an interesting place to run into. However, they had a little snack window where we could buy smaller goods such as chips and candy.
The rangers in the area also provided my group and me a lot of hospitality, such as welcoming us and inviting us to the Lodge sit area. They allowed us to write postcards to our families that they would then mail for us! There was also a game box at the lodge that the owners allowed us to take back to our camp. So, we played A LOT of Cards Against Humanity and Blackjack.
Our campsite had a small sheltered area and picnic tables, something we didn’t have at Cremation! There were also plenty of simple walking trails around for us to explore the area, and of course we did.
Piece of advice: the ranger also told us to hang up our backpacks on hooks high up and put all our food inside an animal-proof box, provided by the campsite.
The reason for this was because of rag tailed cats that like to come out during nighttime and rummage through food and personal items. Any backpacking trip a person takes, will have an animal-related precaution, but at least this was my first backpacking trip without bears!
Day 4: Day at Phantom Ranch
This was our one planned day meant to take a break from backpacking, and what better place than Phantom Ranch? The day started with us waking up a bit later than usual, having breakfast, and then going down to the rafting area for some morning yoga! When we were having to get up early to backpack, we never had time for yoga, but before our easy hike day, we had lots of time.
Night 4: Phantom Ranch
We pretty much did the same thing as we did the night before: chill, have dinner, and play games. The ranger also provided us with a new activity that evening; we each got to fill out a junior park ranger workbook. It was basically a fill in the blank graphic novel, and that’s what made it fun!
Day 5: The Journey Back Up
Today began the most complicated part of the trip: the route back up. There was no snow and it was still pretty warm, but the upward slope was pretty steep the whole time. I went from the front of the pack to the back of the pack very quickly! This was also only part one of the grueling hike back up, part two and the worst part would be the next day, AHHHHHH! Despite the grueling hike, the good news is that we did not need our Yaktrax and that we also got to cross a bridge over the river!
Night 5: Havasupai Gardens
Also known as, “Indian Garden”, this campsite was similar in terms of layout to Phantom Ranch. The area was not as extravagant, but we had an arch to hang up any wet clothes of ours, a little pavilion for dinner, and bathrooms on a small hill but closer to camp!
This campsite had a lot of leaves, and it even rained! Just for a little bit, though, thankfully. Since we were a bit higher up than Phantom Ranch, we were able to see a bit of the snowcap on the mountains!
Day 6: The Final Push
The homestretch, baby! Sadly, this did not make the journey easier. I struggled and remained at the back of the pack the entire time, as every turn was a steep hill. At one point, we did encounter snow again and threw back on our Yaktrax. All we had to keep in mind during the grueling hike was, “pretty soon we’ll be at the top and get to say that we did it!” Positive thinking goes a long way when doing the most difficult things. It also got colder as we went up, and sometimes that makes it easier to keep moving.
Backpacking the Grand Canyon is NOT easy by any means, but sure is fun!
The Finish Line
At some point past the Bright Angel Trailhead sign, we made one last FINAL push up the steep hill. With encouragement, I ended up in the trailhead parking lot with the rest of the group to celebrate.
After loading our gear back into the company van, we traveled to the gift shop to buy ourselves celebration souvenirs and/or snacks. Of course I bought a magnet!
Based on my experience and other opinions of backpackers, the Bright Angel Trail via North and South Kaibab, is the route recommended for backpacking the Grand Canyon. If you’re adventurous enough to finish the Grand Canyon in just a few days, I would recommend skipping Cremation and just camping at Phantom Ranch and Havasupai Gardens. Whatever you do, do NOT skip Phantom Ranch, it is an amazing do-not-miss epicenter of the Grand Canyon.
Hopefully you are able to get a better head start than I did and NOT have to camp in six inches of snow but if you do, pack plenty of freezing temperature friendly gear. Also remember to bring some clothes to keep dry!
If you still think the Grand Canyon is underwhelming after reading this, you ought to try the journey yourself! I guarantee you that you will change your mind and realize there is so much more to the Grand Canyon than just the photos you’ve seen on the internet.
Questions about the backpacking the Grand Canyon or the park itself? Feel free to contact me!
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